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The Pleasure of a Chilled Soup on a Sweltering Day


Ice-cold schav.

Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Rebecca Bartoshesky.

Back when it used to snow in winter and bloom in spring, and when the dog days of summer came reliably in August and not weirdly in April or June, I used to drink ice-cold schav to keep from falling completely apart. In those days, we languished in our East Village or Hell’s Kitchen railroad apartments — the kind with floors that sloped and a tub in the kitchen from which you could reach a wet hand out of the morning shower to turn off the gas under the hissing pot of Café Bustelo. You’d throw your key down in a balled-up tube sock to friends below on the sidewalk — because the buzzer never worked — and you’d sit out on the fire escape…

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